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Reriz nestles in a deep valley high in the mountain province of the Beira Alta of northern Portugal. It is in the Paiva valley, which is more or less midway between Porto and Coimbra and about 40miles inland (if you could go directly). Porto is about an hour and half drive up the motorway, Lisbon about three hours drive. Santander is 80 miles by road which is an easy days run.
The valley floor on which the house stands grows the warm Mediterranean crops of grapes, olives and oranges. The sides of the mountains which rise to around 4,500ft are clad in pine forest while at the top they are open moorland. The village is changing rapidly as the twentieth century impinges on rural life but the province must still be one of the least developed in Europe. Where northern Portugal differs from other southern countries is in its abundant streams that keep the valleys green and fertile all year round. The beautiful river Paiva has splendid safe swimming, rapids, deep pools and sandy beaches. It is generally much better than the sea an hour and a half away at Aveiro which tends to be both rough and cold.
Northern Portugal has a mediterranean climate, modifed by being on the Atlantic. Thus summers are normally hot rising to 0°C in July and August, but a cool 15°C at night. Often little or no rain falls in the summer, but winter is usually very wet. In spring and autumn it is hot when the sun is out but it can also be showery and cool. Early spring or late autumn nights can be cold. While the winter is usually very wet, in some years no rain at all falls between April and October.
The Paiva valley is A mais desconhecida de todas as serras. The most undiscovered of all the mountain ranges - so begins the best guide-book to Portugal when describing our area (unfortunately The Discovery of Portugal has never been translated into English). It is a region of high granite mountains which, like the highlands of Scotland, are covered in a scrub of gorse, heather and broom. The mountain sides are clothed in pine forest intersected with ancient paths climbing up from hidden valley floors through which swift-flowing clear rivers run and the warm-weather crops of grapes and olives are cultivated.
Cheap University Papers on Reriz and The Paiva valley in Portugal
There are splendid walks down the valley through the forests and under arcades hanging with vines. Ones chief difficulty is avoiding the copinho (quick snifter) which the natives press on one, though there is no shortage of pubs. For those who prefer sterner walking, the mountain tracks lead for miles. Reriz is known for its flowers and there is an abundance of insect life, though happily not many mosquitoes.
Reriz is well placed as a centre from which to explore northern Portugal. To the north-west is the Minho with old towns such as Porto and Braga; to the north east is Trasos Montes with Regua (port lodges) and ancient cities like Vila Real. To the South lies the old university city of Coimbra and on the coast the fishing port of Aveiro. The nearest town is Castro Daire (8km) and the nearest city of Viseu (5km), both charming places where most amenities including shops and restaurants exist. The villages shops (one manned by English speakers) can supply daily necessities and the two pubs reasonable meals at very modest prices (often well under £5 per head for three course including wine).
There is only one other house nearby, a restored mill house, out of sight below the bridge, otherwise the nearest neighbours are about half a mile further up the valley at Griyo.
Poute Cabacos (Cabacos Bridge) is about half a mile from Reriz. On one side are the lower slopes of Montemuro which rises to a majestic 18 metres (4,500). On the other side rises up a steep hillside, covered with pine forest up to São Macario which is itself over 1000 metres. As the river Paiva winds westwards there is a ruined bridge where shepherds are often to be seen watering their flocks, much reminiscent of a classical landscape by Claude Lorraine.
In the widest part of the valley, the house is bathed in sunshine virtually all day.
The river has one of the best bathing pools in northern Portugal. Its steep rocks form natural diving boards and sandy beaches for tinies. While this can attract locals in high summer, they rarely appear before the afternoon. As the afternoon water temperature in the summer is around 0°C it provides much safer and more comfortable bathing than the sea whose nearest point is at Aveiro some 80km away. This particular spot is often used for outward-bound activities of canoeing rock climbing and abseiling. The river is famous for its trout, though these remain curiously impervious to the lure of Scottish trout flies. Barbel exist in plenty.
Leisure Life in the Portuguese villages is changing rapidly as the twenty first century catches up with this remote outpost of the European Union. But much of the traditional life of the small peasant farmer remains centred on his self-sufficient small holding, growing crops all the year round. The local speciality in the handicraft line is making baskets and the markets still sell the pottery, tin-ware and tools of the agricultural community as well as a lot of modern tat. Mixed flocks of sheep and goats are a frequent sight at the the river but few of the traditional cow-carts are still in use.
There are few leisure activities in the valley, just the swimming, and, for those who like walking, splendid tracks through the pine forests. Nature is abundant São Macario is part of the national park of forest and flowers and, as well as rare species of plants, boasts spectacular insects (though happily very few mosquitoes).
With the vast improvement to the Portuguese road network over the past few years, the Paiva valley becomes a better and better centre for exploring those parts of Portugal which are not on the beaten tourist route. A new road links (or will shortly) the local town of Castro Daire with the Douro valley making the journey to Regua where the port lodges are about half an hour away. In addition there is a new road from the nearest city of Viseu, in itself well worth a visit, that has brought Fatima and Coimbra within about twohours from Reriz. Even Lisbon is now only about three hours drive including the historic towns north of the city such as Batalha, Alcobaça and Nazar.
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